How to Install Klipper on a Raspberry Pi: Complete Step-by-Step Guide

What Is Klipper and Why Install It?
Klipper is a 3D printer firmware that runs on a separate computer, typically a Raspberry Pi, instead of directly on the printer control board. This architecture gives Klipper access to the processing power of a full Linux computer, enabling features that traditional firmwares like Marlin cannot match.
The benefits are significant:
- Input shaping eliminates ringing and ghosting at high speeds
- Pressure advance sharpens corners by compensating for filament compression
- Higher print speeds thanks to faster computation of stepper motor movements
- Web interface for remote control and monitoring from any browser
- Macro system for automating complex tasks
- Easy configuration through a text file instead of recompiling firmware
What You Need
Hardware
- Raspberry Pi 3B+, 4, or 5 (Pi 4 with 2GB+ RAM recommended)
- MicroSD card (16GB minimum, 32GB recommended, Class 10 or faster)
- USB cable to connect Pi to your 3D printer control board
- Power supply for the Raspberry Pi (official 5V/3A recommended)
- Ethernet cable or WiFi (ethernet recommended for initial setup)
Compatible Printers
Klipper supports virtually every FDM 3D printer with a supported control board. Common boards include Creality 4.2.2 and 4.2.7, BTT SKR Mini E3, BTT Octopus, BTT Manta, MKS Robin Nano, and any board with an STM32, LPC1768/1769, ATSAM, or RP2040 MCU.
Step 1: Flash the Operating System
Option A: Raspberry Pi Imager (Recommended)
- Download and install the Raspberry Pi Imager on your computer.
- Insert your microSD card into your computer.
- Open Raspberry Pi Imager and select Raspberry Pi OS Lite (64-bit) as the operating system.
- Click the gear icon to open advanced settings: enable SSH, set username and password, configure WiFi if not using ethernet, set locale and timezone.
- Select your SD card as the storage target and click Write.
Option B: Pre-built Image (Faster)
MainsailOS and FluiddPi are pre-built images that include Klipper, Moonraker, and a web interface already configured. Flash either image using Raspberry Pi Imager or Balena Etcher. If you use a pre-built image, skip to Step 3.
Step 2: Install Klipper Using KIAUH
KIAUH (Klipper Installation And Update Helper) is the recommended way to install Klipper and its supporting software.
Connect to Your Pi
Insert the SD card into your Raspberry Pi and power it on. Wait 2-3 minutes for the first boot to complete. Find your Pi IP address from your router DHCP client list. SSH into the Pi using ssh pi@YOUR_PI_IP_ADDRESS.
Install KIAUH
sudo apt update && sudo apt upgrade -y
sudo apt install git -y
cd ~ && git clone https://github.com/dw-0/kiauh.git
./kiauh/kiauh.sh
Install Components
From the KIAUH main menu, select 1) Install and install the following in order:
- Klipper — the firmware itself
- Moonraker — the API server that web interfaces communicate with
- Mainsail or Fluidd — the web interface (both are excellent; pick one)
The installation process takes 10-15 minutes depending on your Pi model and internet speed.
Step 3: Flash Klipper Firmware to Your Printer
Klipper needs a small firmware component running on your printer control board. This firmware handles real-time stepper motor control while the Pi handles everything else.
Configure the Firmware
SSH into your Pi and run:
cd ~/klipper
make menuconfig
This opens a configuration menu. The settings depend on your control board:
Creality 4.2.2/4.2.7: STM32F103, 28KiB bootloader, Serial on USART1
BTT SKR Mini E3 V3: STM32G0B1, 8KiB bootloader, USB
BTT Octopus: STM32F446, 32KiB bootloader, USB
Compile and Flash
make clean
make
For boards with SD card bootloader (most Creality boards): Copy klipper.bin to your computer, rename to firmware.bin, copy to a freshly formatted microSD card (FAT32), power off the printer, insert the SD card, and power on. The board flashes automatically in about 30 seconds.
For boards with USB DFU mode: Connect the board to the Pi via USB, enter DFU mode (hold BOOT while pressing RESET), then run make flash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/serial/by-id/YOUR_DEVICE_ID.
Find Your Serial Device
After flashing, connect your printer to the Pi via USB and run:
ls /dev/serial/by-id/*
Copy the resulting path. You will need it for the configuration file.
Step 4: Create Your Printer Configuration
Klipper uses a single configuration file called printer.cfg that defines everything about your printer.
Start With a Template
Klipper includes configuration templates for hundreds of printers. Find the one closest to yours:
ls ~/klipper/config/ | grep printer-
cp ~/klipper/config/printer-creality-ender3-v2-2021.cfg ~/printer_data/config/printer.cfg
Edit the Configuration
The most critical edit is the serial port. Find the [mcu] section and set the serial path you found in Step 3:
[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f103xe_XXXXXXXXXXXX-if00
Essential Configuration Sections
Your printer.cfg should include at minimum: [printer] with kinematics and speed limits, [stepper_x], [stepper_y], [stepper_z] with pin assignments, [extruder] with heater and sensor config, and [heater_bed] with bed heater config. Always use the template for your exact printer model as a starting point.
Step 5: First Boot and Calibration
Verify Connection
- Open your browser and navigate to
http://YOUR_PI_IP. - The Mainsail or Fluidd interface should load.
- Check the dashboard for the Klipper connection status. It should show Ready or Standby.
- If you see an error, check the Klipper log for specific error messages.
Initial Calibrations
Before printing, run these calibrations in order:
PID Tuning (Hotend): Run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=200, then SAVE_CONFIG.
PID Tuning (Bed): Run PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=60, then SAVE_CONFIG.
Bed Mesh: Run BED_MESH_CALIBRATE if you have a probe.
Extruder Rotation Distance: Calibrate how much filament your extruder actually pushes per step. Follow the Klipper documentation on rotation_distance calibration.
Input Shaping (optional but recommended): If you have an ADXL345 accelerometer, attach it to the hotend and run SHAPER_CALIBRATE. This automatically measures resonance frequencies and configures input shaping.
Step 6: Configure Your Slicer
Klipper works with any slicer that outputs standard G-code. Set your start G-code to call a macro:
START_PRINT EXTRUDER_TEMP=[nozzle_temperature_initial_layer] BED_TEMP=[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]
And end G-code to:
END_PRINT
Then define these macros in your printer.cfg. The START_PRINT macro should home axes, heat the bed and nozzle, run a bed mesh, and draw a purge line. The END_PRINT macro should retract, move the bed forward, and turn off heaters.
With Mainsail or Fluidd, you can upload G-code files directly through the web interface. OrcaSlicer and PrusaSlicer also support direct upload to Moonraker.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
MCU not connected Error
The Pi cannot communicate with the printer board. Check the USB cable (some are charge-only), verify the serial path in printer.cfg, confirm the firmware was flashed correctly, and try a different USB port on the Pi.
ADC out of range Error
A temperature sensor is reading outside expected values. Check thermistor wiring, verify the correct sensor_type in your config, and look for damaged thermistor wires.
Printer Homes in Wrong Direction
Motor direction is inverted. Add or remove the ! prefix on the dir_pin for the affected axis.
Print Quality Issues After Install
If prints look worse after switching to Klipper: calibrate pressure advance, run input shaping calibration, verify rotation_distance, and check that acceleration values are not set too high for your frame.
What to Do Next
- Calibrate pressure advance for each filament type you use regularly
- Set up input shaping with an ADXL345 accelerometer for the best high-speed quality
- Create filament-specific macros for loading, unloading, and purging
- Set up timelapse with the Moonraker timelapse plugin
- Configure notifications through Moonraker integration with Telegram, Discord, or email
- Explore Klipper macros to automate repetitive tasks
Final Thoughts
Installing Klipper on a Raspberry Pi transforms an ordinary 3D printer into a high-performance machine. The process takes 1-2 hours for someone doing it for the first time, and most of that time is waiting for software to install. Once running, the combination of input shaping, pressure advance, and web-based control makes Klipper one of the best upgrades you can make to any 3D printer.
The key is to start with a known-good configuration template for your specific printer and make changes incrementally. Get the basics working, then add input shaping, pressure advance, and custom macros one at a time.